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Saturday, March 20, 2010

Baby Booties Knitting Pattern

Baby Booties Knitting Pattern


Knitting Pattern Baby Booties
These baby booties feature garter stitch welts and are knit in the round. A matching cardigan


Materials:

Sport weight yarn
Set of 4 size 4 US (3.5 mm) double points
Size 3 US (3.25 mm) will knit a slightly smaller size
tapestry needle
crochet hook

Size:

Fits most babies. About 4" toe-to-heel.

Instructions: Cuff:

CO 36 sts. Divide over 3 needles (12 sts on each needle). Making sure sts aren't twisted, join.
Work k1, p1 ribbing for 22 to 24 rounds. The rounds begin and end at the tail where the join is. Instep:
K 12 sts on needles 1 and 2. Do not work 12 sts on needle 3.
K 1 row; P 1 row; K 1 row; K 1 row for 15 rows over the 12 sts from needle 2 only.
Next row: K2tog, k across to last 2 sts, k2tog
P 1 row.
Repeat dec row - 8 sts remain

Welt:
Pick up 11 sts along left side of instep flap from the edges of the rows. K the 12 sts from needle 3 (the ones that did not get worked before). You should now be at the heel of the bootie. P the next 12 sts from needle 1. Pick up 11 sts along right side of the instep flap. P across 8 toe sts. P back to the heel. Rearrange sts on needles so you have 18 sts on each needle. Work alternating rounds of K and P until there are 5 garter stitch ridges.

Sole:
K first round, placing marker between 9th and 10th stitch at toe.

Decrease round: K2 tog, k to within 3 sts of marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, k2tog, work to last 2 sts of round, k2tog.
K 1 round even.
Repeat Decrease round.
K 1 round even.
Repeat Decrease round.
BO next round and sew seam shut. Alternate ending: After last decrease row, K half a round. Break off yarn, leaving a tail of about 15 inches. Weave sole together, using Kitchener stitch.

Laces:
Make two 16 inch chains with crochet hook. Use large tapestry needle to thread chain in and out around cuff so that it ties in front. Knot the ends, so laces do not slide out.


SOURCE:knittingonthenet.com


Knitting Pattern for Baby Raglan Sweater


Baby Raglan Sweater Knitting Pattern


This raglan sweater for babies is knit from the top down and is entirely seamless. Garter stitch welts add interest or knit it entirely in stockinette; you could add stripes as well. A matching knitting pattern for is also available.

Size
Fits babies about 6 months
Finished chest measurement: 19 inches

Gauge
24 sts and 36 rows = 4" with larger needles over pattern stitch

Materials
1 ball sportweight yarn such as Bernat Softee Baby
Size 3 US (3.25 mm) straight needles
Size 5 US (3.75 mm) circular needles 29" long
Set of 4 Size 3 US (3.25 mm) and Size 5 US (3.75 mm) double points
2 stitch holders
stitch markers
tapestry needle

Instructions Stitch Pattern

Back and forth:
Rows 1, 3 and 4: K
Row 2: P In the round:
Rnds 1, 2 and 3: K
Rnd 4: p Beginning at collar, with straight needles CO 72 sts.
Rows 1 and 3: K5, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5 for button band
Rows 2 and 4: K5, *p2, k2; rep from 8 to last 5 sts, k5
Row 5: Rep Row 1, working a buttonhole in band at beginning of row for boys (k2, yo, k2tog, k1) or at end for girls (k1, k2tog, yo, k2). Work buttonholes every 12th ridge or 24 rows.
Row 6: Rep Row 2
Row 7: Rep Row 1
Row 8: Rep Row 2 placing markers as follows: Work 17 sts for front, pm, work 8 sts for sleeve, pm, work 22 sts for back, pm, work 8 sts for sleeve, pm, work last 17 sts for front.
Change to circular needles, working back and forth as if with straights. Begin yoke and raglan increases. Increase by knitting into the front and back of same stitch.
Row 9 (RS): K5, *k to within 2 sts of marker, inc in next st, K 1, slip marker, inc in next st; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5 - 80 sts
Row 10 (WS): K5, p to last 5 sts, k5
Row 11: Rep Row 9
Row 12: K Rep last four rows for pattern stitch until you have 42 sts for each sleeve, ending with WS completed-208 sts total Join body and put sleeves on holder
(RS): *Work to within 2 sts of marker, inc in next st, K1, remove marker. Put 42 sts of sleeve on holder without working. CO 4 sts at underarm. Remove next marker, inc in next st; rep from * once and complete row - 136 sts , continuing in pattern stitch and repeating buttonholes at the proper interval. End with 3rd row of pattern stitch, 8 ridges below the 4th buttonhole.

Bottom Band
Change to smaller straight needles.
WS: K5, *p2, k2; rep from 8 to last 5 sts, k5
Continue in ribbing and working buttonbands as for collar, knitting 5th buttonhole at proper interval.
Work 4 rows after buttonhole, then BO loosely in pattern.

Sleeves
With larger double points, k 42 sts from holder and pick up 6 sts from underarm (the 4 CO sts, plus an extra st at each end of CO sts). Divide 15 sts on needle 1, 18 sts on needle 2, 15 sts on needle 3 - 48 sts
Begin at underarm, dec and join:
Rnd 1: K5, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 46 sts
Rnd 2: K
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: P
Rnd 5: K4, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 44 sts
Rnd 6: K
Rnd 7: K
Rnd 8: P
Rnd 9: K3, k2tog, k to the last st, K it together with the 1st stitch from the beginning of next round - 42 sts Work even over 42 sts as established in pattern stitch until sleeve measures 4" or desired length. End with p rnd completed.
*K2tog, k5; rep from * around - 36 sts
Change to smaller double points and work in k2, p2 ribbing for one inch. BO loosely.
Rep for second sleeve.
Sew on buttons. Weave in ends on WS.


SOURCE:knittingonthenet



Learn To Knit

Glossary Of Knitting Terms Knitting patterns commonly use these knitting terms. Also see for more help.
  • Bind Off In Pattern
    This is a small detail but adds a professional touch. You will generally see this instruction when you have been knitting using a instead of stockinette. Work the next row of the stitch pattern, knitting and purling just as if you were working that row, as you bind off.
  • Decrease Or Increase Evenly
    Sometimes a pattern will tell you specifically where to decrease or increase across a row; other times it will only tell you the specific number of stitches to decrease or increase and to do so evenly. You don't want the decreases or increases together at one end but spread out as evenly as possible across the entire row. Otherwise, it will cause your knitting to pucker and flare. For help on how to determine how to spread out your decreases or increases evenly, please see . You will find the principle is the same to decrease evenly.
  • Keeping To Pattern
    If you knitting a , you'll just follow the instruction for each row as long as you keep working over the same number of stitches. But as you shape a project, such as a sleeve or a neckline, you will find that you need to increase or decrease the number of stitches you are knitting. This changes where you will begin and end each row.
  • Multiple Of Stitches
    A stitch multiple is the number of stitches you need to have for one complete repeat of a stitch pattern. A multiple of 5 stitches means you should cast on any number of stitches that is divisible by 5. A multiple of 6 + 1 means you should cast on any number of stitches that is divisible by 6 plus 1 extra stitch.
  • Reverse Shaping
    Almost all cardigan patterns will give you exact instructions for knitting one front; the other front instruction will tell you to knit it the same way, but reverse shaping. The neck and armhole edges are at their logical respective places. With the right side facing the public, hold the left or right front up against you. This is the easiest way to tell which is the armhole edge and which is the neck edge if you get confused. To reverse shaping, work the shaping at the opposite end from where you worked it for the first side. Usually you will begin to shape an armhole by binding off stitches. If you bound off the stitches at the beginning of a right side row for one front, you would bind off stitches at the beginning of a wrong side row for the other front. This keep the shaping on the correct edge. If you are increasing or decreasing at the beginning of a row for one front, you would increase or decrease at the end of the row for the other front.
  • Selvedge
    You will also see this word spelled selvage. All knitting has a selvedge on each side. It only means the first and last stitches. If it's something that will be seamed, these are the stitches that will be used to seam the piece together; they will no longer be visible when it is sewn. With knitting projects such as scarves and afghans where there are no seams, you will have a selvedge. You will sometimes see a pattern that tells you to work the first and last stitch in a specific way, such as slipping the first stitch and knitting the last stitch. This creates a neat selvedge on each side that enhances the look of the project.
  • With Right Side Facing
    You will often see this term when you are about to pick up stitches along an edge but you may see it at other times as well. The right side, or the side that will be facing the public when it's completed, should be facing you as you work.
  • Work Even
    This term often follows a sequence where you just completed shaping and have increased or decreased. You will have a different number of stitches than when you began that sequence. You are now working over the number of stitches you currently have.

SOURCE:knittingonthenet






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